In May 2014, I set off on my first-ever solo trip to Paris, a city that had always been on my travel bucket list. I stayed in a tiny Airbnb near the Eiffel Tower—so close that if I stuck my head out of the kitchen window, I could watch the lights twinkle at night. It was magical. But before I even settled in, I had my first Parisian surprise: I messaged my husband to tell him that the Eiffel Tower was tan. Somehow, I’d always imagined it being more golden or silver, and to this day, we laugh whenever we see it on TV and say, “wait, it’s tan?”
May 24, 2014: A Soft Landing in Paris
After a long flight and navigating my way to my rental, I took just one ride in the comically small elevator—only because I had my luggage—and then opted for the stairs for the rest of my stay. That first day was about getting a feel for the neighborhood and gathering provisions. My first meal? A croque monsieur at a classic Parisian café, eaten at a tiny outdoor table while watching the world go by. It was essentially a fancy grilled cheese, but denser, richer, and undeniably French.
From there, I meandered from shop to shop, picking up a fresh baguette, some of the best strawberries I’ve ever had, cheese from a fromagerie, and a bottle of rosé to set myself up for a cozy evening. Watching the Eiffel Tower’s lights sparkle from my little kitchen window was the perfect ending to my first night in Paris.
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May 25, 2014: Immersed in Art and Gardens
My first full day started with a visit to the Musée d’Orsay, my favorite museum in Paris and one I return to on every trip. Its collection of Impressionist art is breathtaking—Monet, Renoir, van Gogh, and my personal favorite, Degas. It was here that I truly connected with Degas’ work, following the progression of his art as his eyesight deteriorated. Since then, I’ve sought out his paintings in museums around the world.
Lunch was at the museum’s stunning restaurant, where the ceilings were adorned with paintings and gold-gilded trim. Afterward, I strolled through Jardin du Luxembourg, admiring the Medici Fountain and watching children sail toy boats in the pond. A Nutella crêpe powered me through the walk back to my rental—because when in Paris, dessert is always a good idea.
May 26, 2014: Monet’s Masterpieces and the Richness of Angelina
Determined to beat the crowds, I started the day at Musée de l’Orangerie, where Monet’s massive Water Lilies paintings are displayed in an oval gallery. Sitting in the quiet space, surrounded by his brushstrokes, was an almost meditative experience.
Lunch at Angelina followed, featuring the thickest, richest hot chocolate imaginable. It’s so decadent that it comes with a side of whipped cream for you to stir in to taste. After indulging, I walked it off in the Tuileries Garden, where the late May blooms created a kaleidoscope of color. Before heading back to the apartment, I restocked on strawberries, raspberries, and another baguette, amused by the tiny cans of Coca-Cola Light that seemed so much smaller than what I was used to in the U.S.
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Versailles, the King’s Garden, and a Michelin-Starred Meal
One of the experiences I was most excited about was a special tour of Le Potager du Roi, the king’s kitchen garden at Versailles. Our small group met in Paris and took the train together to the historic walled garden, where we learned about the methods used to cultivate produce for the royal court. We then shopped for cheese and paired it with fruits and vegetables from the garden for a perfect picnic.
That evening, I dined at Spring, the Parisian restaurant of Chef Daniel Rose. The tasting menu featured seasonal ingredients like elderflowers, making for an unforgettable meal. I was lucky enough to return the following summer with my niece before the restaurant closed, but I later had the chance to dine at Chef Rose’s Le Coucou in New York—another incredible experience.
May 28, 2014: A Return to Versailles
Some might think it’s crazy, but I went back to Versailles the next day—this time for a full exploration of the palace and its grounds. The grandeur is even more overwhelming in person than in the movies. But what enchanted me most wasn’t the Hall of Mirrors or the lavish palace rooms; it was Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon and her mini farm (Le Hameau de la Reine). The rustic retreat, nestled away from the main palace, felt like a step back in time and provided a quiet escape from the crowds.
May 29, 2014: The Louvre and a Garden Break
On day six, I finally made it to the Louvre to see the Mona Lisa. As expected, it was small, heavily protected, and surrounded by throngs of people taking photos. While worth seeing, the museum’s true treasures are everywhere—Napoleon’s apartments, the Winged Victory of Samothrace, and countless masterpieces. Afterward, I found myself back in the Jardin des Tuileries, where I grabbed a chair and soaked in the atmosphere of the city.
May 30, 2014: A Food Safari to Remember
For my final day in Paris, I visited Notre Dame (long before the devastating fire) and designed my own food tour, gathering treasures to bring home. The highlight? Le Beurre Bordier—hands down the best butter I’ve ever tasted. I discovered it at Spring, asked the waiter where to buy it, and successfully tracked it down. I wrapped it up, froze it in my rental’s tiny freezer, and confirmed via the TSA app that butter was allowed in my carry-on.
Other delicious souvenirs included specialty Maille mustards, Angelina’s hot chocolate mix, and, of course, macarons. Packing up, I reflected on my week in Paris, already knowing I’d be back soon.
A Love Affair with Paris
Just like that, my first solo trip to Paris came to an end. But the love affair with the city had only begun—I returned the very next summer and have continued to visit over the years. Paris has a way of pulling you back, whispering stories through its streets, art, and flavors. And after all these years, I still laugh every time I see the Eiffel Tower and remember that first message to my husband: “Wait, it’s tan?”
